Day 07 - Senigallia, Italy to Gubbio, Italy

With a long day of riding ahead, our group split into several parts: those who slept longer, and those who took off very early to get a head start (and avoid some of the peak broiling hours). Whichever group you rode with, we all encountered wonderful hospitality from strangers, and absolutely astounding views.

With 90km to cover (and a fair bit of climbing in the mix), we set our sights on the halfway point for lunch, a town called Arcevia that is high on a hill top. But this being a Sunday, not much was open for business, and beautiful as Arcevia was, it offered little in the way of sustenance. And by the time we had reached there, up a steep ascent and with strong headwinds, we were ready for another Italian feast. The second group found just that in a lovely town near Sassoforrato, requiring some extra climbing made easily worth it for the delicious pasta and meats a restaurant offered.

The first group, however, got a very special treat. When Connie arrived in the town of Scheggia (77km in to the ride), and found nothing opened, she spoke to a tavern keeper who called around to find anything. When nothing proved available, he invited the group upstairs above his tavern where his wife cooked a home meal of pasta for everyone. She even offered a pitcher of wine which the riders regretfully declined. Elsewhere during the ride, Dave said "Aqua, aqua!" to some locals, and was invited inside their home to fill his CamelBak. Italians in Umbria have been a very welcoming lot.

Unforgettable features of much of the ride were the gorgeous views that opened before our eyes at every turn, and especially after climbing to the heights. Fields of yellow and green unfurled across the land like a patchwork quilt dotted with clusters of white homes with orange roof-tiles. Incredible views of a different kind greeted us at our day's destination, the Medieval-Renaissance fortress city of Gubbio. Breathtaking architecture, a Roman amphitheater, bustling markets, and winding ancient streets narrow alleys, make this gem of a city a photographer's dream. The group got a bird's eye view of Gubbio, too, after taking a funicular (with cages for two to stand in) way up to the top of a mountain. The wonderful and challenging day was rounded off with, you guessed it: a delicious dinner (e.g. prosciutto and melon, bruschetta, authentic thin slice pizza, homemade pastas, sea food) and copious gelato.

Quotes of the Day
"Connie. . . Italy is closed."
-Roger, lamenting the slow or no-business Sunday.

Hans: "Is it your bicycle?"
Roger: "No, but I'm going to fix it so it has one wheel."

"This is what Italians do on Sundays."
-Hans, regarding the numerous bike enthusiasts we saw riding along the roads with us.

"It's so great here, but too many American tourists. It would be better if I weren't here."
-Andy, in Gubbio

Rider of the Day: Mike
1. What was your best day so far?
Today: the scenery was non-stop, and Gubbio is breathtaking.

2. What was your worst day/moment?
Day 2 with significant knee pain crossing from Slovenia to Croatia.

3. Why did you decide to go on the tour?
My last name is Scalisi and I've never been to Italy. Also, I love unicycle touring.

4. Favorite gelato flavor(s)?
Nocciola (Hazelnut).

5. Are there any items in your CamelBak you haven't touched or used this tour?
My Blackberry was in my bag for days with no connection.

6. Are you collecting anything?
I meant to collect menus. So far, just one.

7. What was your favorite bathroom/lodging this tour?
The jail in Ljubljana.

8. If you could change anything about your uni, what would it be?
Narrower hub and shorter cranks.

9. What were your favorite two or three films of the last 10 years?
The Big Lebowski, American Beauty, and Buffalo '66.

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Created: Monday, June 25, 2007 18:24